Chalk stripe flannel

Flannel is woven loose, then washed and beaten until the fibres felt together. That milling gives it the soft, slightly hazy surface you can see in the detail view, and it is why the chalk stripe looks drawn on rather than woven in.

At 13 oz it is warm enough for a northern winter and heavy enough to hang cleanly from the shoulder. We cut it most often as a double-breasted suit with a soft chest and wide, low-set lapels.